Saraghrar, Major Mountains

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Saraghrar

Saraghrar massif is the fourth highest in High Hindu Kush, a 600km long mountain chain located at the North frontier of Pakistan with Afghanistan. Tirich Mir, 7708m, is the highest peak of High Hindu Kush chain, whose numerous valleys are often difficult to reach. Saraghrar massif is a huge, irregular stretched plateau (7000m), lying above vertical granite and silver ice faces, which protect it all around. Its distinct summits are poorly identified and information gathered from expeditions, which visited the area are often misleading. The main summits are: NE summit (7349m), NW summit (7300m), SW summit (7148m), S summit (7307m) and SE summit (7208m). To date (2005) NW summit is the only unclimbed peak.

History of first ascents:

In 1958 British team led by Ted Norrish make a first try on NE summit (7349m). This expedition is stopped by the death of a member (P. S. Nelson) in a casualty. The year after, on August 24th 1959, NE peak is summitted for the first time by an Italian team led by Fosco Maraini (Franco Alletto, Giancarlo Castelli, Paolo Consiglio and Betto Pinelli). Their itineray is going by Niroghi glacier (Nord-East of the massif). In August 24th 1967, Satoh Yukitoshi and Hara Hirosada, members of a Japanese expedition led by Kenichiro Yamamoto (Mountaineering club of Hitotsubashi University) reach the South summit for the first time by the Rosh-Gol glacier. In 1971, Nagano, member of a Japanese expedition (Shizuoka climbing club) led by Akiyama Reiske, summit SW peak for the first time on July 29th. Three Catalan expeditions 1975, 1977 and 1982 try NW summit in on a rocky route. In August 9th, 1982, Juan Lopez Diaz (expedition leader), Enrique Lucas Llop and Nil Bohigas Martorell reach NW II summit (7200m). In 2005, five members of a Swiss expedition led by Jean-Michel Zweiacker reach the SE summit (7208m) for the first time (Mazal Chevallier, Sébastien Grosjean and Yves-Alain Peter on July 24th; Marc Bélanger and Jean-Michel Zweiacker on July 29th).

Related

• Rakaposhi east
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• Balti peak
• Jabardar
• Passu sar
• Masherbrum
• Yazghil
• Udren zom
• Busper peak
• Golden peak

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