Broad Peak, Major Mountains
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Broad Peak
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| Broad Peak from Concordia Platz | |
| Elevation | 8,047 metres (26,400 feet) Ranked 12th (4th in Pakistan) |
| Location | Gilgit-Baltistan (China-Pakistan) |
| Range | Karakoram |
| Prominence | 1,701 m |
| Coordinates | 35°48′38″N, 76°34′05″E |
| First ascent | June 9, 1957 by an Austrian team |
| Easiest route | snow/ice climb |
Broad Peak (originally named K3) is the 12th highest mountain on Earth and 4th highest in Pakistan. Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif and is about 8 kilometres (5 miles) from K2. Broad Peak was originally named K3 right after the naming of K2 but on closer inspection by a later party, it was discovered that the summit was over 1½ kilometres (1 mile) long, thus "Broad Peak". Broad Peak is known locally as Faichan Kangri. The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Phalchan Kangri is not accepted among the Baltis.
The first ascent of Broad Peak was made on June 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. A first attempt by the team was made on May 29 where Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030m). The first ascent was also accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen, high altitude porters and without base camp support.
On the same expedition, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller made a flash first ascent of Skil Brum peak (7,360m) on June 19, 1957 in pure Alpine style in 53 hours.
Hermann Buhl fell to his death when he and Diemberger attempted to climb nearby Chogolisa peak (7,654m) on June 27, 1957.
Books
Richard Sale has written the following book:
- Broad Peak, 2004. English published by Carreg Ltd in the UK. ISBN 0953863115
Marcus Schmuck has written the following book:
- Broad Peak 8047m Meine Bergfahrten mit Hermann Buhl, 1958. German published by Verlag "Das Bergland-buch" in Salzburg/Stuttgart.
Time Line
- 1954 First attempt by Dr. Karl Herligkoffer of Germany on the SW side that failed due to a storm and extreme cold.
- 1957 First ascent
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- Gasherbrum iv
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- Koyo zom
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- Silberzacken
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- K2
- Nanga Parbat
- Gasherbrum I
- Broad Peak
- Gasherbrum II
- Gasherbrum III
- Gasherbrum IV
- Distaghil Sar
- Kunyang Chhish
- Masherbrum
- Batura I
- Kanjut Sar
- Rakaposhi
- Batura II
- Saltoro Kangri
- Batura III
- Tirich Mir
- Chogolisa I
- Shispare
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- Batura IV
- Trivor
- Skyang Kangri
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